A to Z of footwear technical terms, construction methods, part names, and more.


Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor, retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.

One of the best things about going down to Copenhagen recently was CPH Vision was....Copenhagen! In my opinion, THE top city for its combination of European flavor, medium size, and great design and fashion, everywhere.

Click the Read More line below for more pics of KBH.

I probably spent more time looking at people than at the clothes, but did notice a few trends to speak of.

Certainly, as mentioned earlier and seen as well at ISPO, the 80's and early 90's colors and patterns are moving things in sportswear in one direction. A mix between urban camo, and 80s skiing, prints like this hot pink, blue, green are (unfortunately in my opinion) coming back.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and trend info.





And then there's the leggings...

In other direction, the all over graphic print is still here, but moving into other areas of apparel crossing from more streetwear hoodies and T-s to dresses and bags.







Taking over the graphic direction however, I believe is a more craft based application of graphics coming from knit and traditional print patterns.











In more upmarket fashion, minimal with construction details seems to still be the direction, especially among Scandinavian brands, with more and more refinement in details and cuts. Pants are moving to higher waisted, wider leg (in the same direction as jeans), and fur is up again.

Colorwise....... purple!

CPH Vision, like most fashion trade fairs is a place to not only spot new brands and trend, but many very interesting people. Personally, I find the fashion people more interesting than most of the fashion.

80's is back....with a vengeance. If these fashionistas are to be believed, we will all be back in hot pink and leggings, sweating to the oldies in no time. In my opinion, I find it all a little over the top. Inspiration and elements are great, but looking like you just stepped out of a Cindy Lauper video is a bit much.

In any case, check of the Read More link below for lots more pics.










Thankfully, not everyone is going back to the future 100%. Also coming back from the 80's with a bit more class and with updated style are denim cuts such as these skinny high-waisted jeans. This I can take, especially on this model.



More pics and People Watching from CPH Vision coming soon.

First up in coverage from CPH Vision is the new hummel booth and collection.

hummel presented a new booth for CPH Vision, which combined the traditional Dansih wood aesthetic with clips of hummel history and past highlights, inspired by the recent hummel Indoor and Old School catalogs I was involved with.

The latest (FW07) footwear collection was also presented, which I will cover in more detail later.

Click the Read More link below for more text and pics from the hummel stand at CPH Vision.


Highights in the collection include the styles Savanna waistcoat, Avery knit hoodie, Avery knit pant and Mia ss cashmere tee from hummel fashion’s AW07 collection which recieved the incredible honor of winning the ISPO Global SportsStyle Award presented last weekend in Munich at GQ Style Night.

Just got back from a great weekend in Copenhagen full of CPH Vision, Copenhagen Fashion Week some great shows, parties, shopping and a day in Malmo, Sweden.

Overall, probably the best, most inspiring weekend I've had in a long time. Copenhagen is a great center for Design and Fashion, and Fashion Week only adds to the unique Scandinavian eccentricity and charm.

I'm now working through almost 900 photos, for a series of articles...check back soon for lots more!

R