This series covers the full scope of production processes.

While the manufacturing production process might vary depending on the design of the shoe (ie. if it is a football boot or running shoe), and the specifics of each step in the process may be done in a slightly different way from factory to factory, the general process and steps involved is the same.

Click the Read More link below to view the the production process of the hummel 4.2 Concept FGC football boot, produced in China.



Click the Post Titles below for each part in the series.

Introduction

Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

While in China I had the opportunity to check out a leather tannery that produces cow and kangaroo finished products for many top brands' performance and lifestyle footwear.

This particulary tannery doesnt process the raw hides, but rather recieves them in "wet blue" form from local manufacturers or imports skins from Australia/New Zealand (kangaroo leather) or Europe (cow leather).

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info about the leather tanning process.






A "wet blue" is a semi processes skin, that is indeed, both wet and blue. The wet blue skin is a result of a chrome tanning process that is done after raw hide is fleshed and the meat and hair is removed and is designed to keep the skins soft and ready for further processing and free from bacterial growth.





Once the wet blue skins are recieved, they are first soaked in water to soften the skin. Then they go through a process called "semming" (not sure about the spelling of this, anyone have the correct term?), which pushes the water out of the skin, but keeps it soft to work with.

Skins are then "shaved" using a special machine that has a fine sandpaper like roller, which makes the skin (especially the bottom surface) more smooth and even.





After this, the skins are split to the correct thickness by being put through a machine that has knife edge which can accurately split the skin in crosssection.







Skins are then graded and measured. Measurement of processed skins is done using a special table that hasa computer controlled laser system which can determine the square footage of the particular skin and add the quantity to inventory.





After the wet blue process, the skins can then be drum dyed, to set a color or finish. The drum dying process involves putting the skins in giant drums along with various chemicals and dyes. A typical skin may go through 4-5 different 40 mintue cycles of dying with different chemicals for a 6 hour total process. Some special finishes can take up to 12 hours of drum dying.



Skins are then air dried for 2-3 days depending of the temperature and humidity inside the factory and can take up to 1 week in particularily cold or wet weather. the the above and below photos you can see the skins hanging from the ceiling on a conveyor system to dry.

A to Z of footwear technical terms, construction methods, part names, and more.


Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor, retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.

New for 2007, the hummel 4.2 Concept FGC/SG features an exciting new material > Pittards WR100X Analine Goat Skin.

The military use this leather for the very thin, but high performance gloves worn by the Special Forces who jump out of helicopters and slide down ropes to action. In these high wear circumstances, gloves are required that will give good water and sweat resistance, but also excellent touch and softness feeling like a second skin. It is also very important that these special gloves prevent rope burn and wear.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.





In our new football boots, these combination of unique features (softness, touch, weather and sweat resistance and high abrasion resistance (20% more than K-leather), make it the perfect material for premium control and performance.This uniquely finished natural aniline offers up to 5 times higher breathability than standard Kangaroo Leather with no sacrifice in water or sweat resistance.

In addition, as it is a very lightweight leather with a unique fibre structure, the resulting boot is 22% lighter than the copa and comparable classic leather boots.

Unlike reguar-finish leathers, this Analine leather needs no "break-in" period. It is super soft fresh from the box, and will only improve and mold to your feet with wear. As well, because of the Analine finish, the surface of the leather has a more dull, natural similar to some baseball batting gloves or driving gloves.





The 4.2 Concept features a classic round FGC outsole, or soft ground SG outsole, and a great mix of classic style with modern technical advantages included a glass reinforced heel counter, and asymmetrical design.

Dk. Grey/White/Gold

To be released Jan 2007

OK all,

Here's the exclusive first news of the hummel 2007 Football collection, to be released Jan 2007.

The 2007 collection (as was 2006) is focused on 3 top models, for different kinds of players. Rather than based only on position, or features (ie. lightweight, etc.) it is based on personality and "Character", and all offer a wide variety of exciting technical and performance features. More on these characters to come (or feel free to dig up some of the posts I made last year about the concept).

The 3 (top) models are...

(More info after the Read More Link below)

R

4.2 Concept FG/SG
For 2007 this boot features a new type of military-spec Goat Skin Leather which makes the boot 22% lighter than the Copa, and 5 times more breathable. Ultimate natural touch and softness, and feel.

6.2 Concept FG
Fully synthetic boot as per 2006 with new colorway for 2007.

8.4 Concept FGX
This boot is 100% new (new last, design, outsole) and our biggest story.
Inspired, in part, by all those SP posts about trying to get the "perfect fit" with using all kinds of crazy methods (showers?!), and in part by the personalized service we offer professionals, this boot features a true user customized fit.

Using a special sockliner technology that can be custom molded to fit your foot using heat, and a new wide last, this boot is perhaps the best fitting, most comfortable boot on the market.

Additional features include super soft and abrasion resistant Goat Skin Leather, glass fibre reinforced heel coutner, fully customizable lacing system and an all new hybrid traction/classic stud outsole.


Additionally, based on the success of last year's limited edition (6.2 Concept FG Pony, 1923 pairs worldwide), there will be two new ultimate special edition boots.

Stay tuned for more info and pics coming up!

Cheers,

Final QC (Quality Control) and and packing are the last steps in production before a finished shoe is done in the shoe factory. Throughout the production process, there is constant checking by QC inspectors at the end of every step and during the process for specific manufacturing issues. This final QC inspection is a more general checkng of the shoe.

Click the Read More link below for more info and pics.





The QC inspectors on the coveyor line at the end of the process check to ensure the size is as marked inside, check to ensure that both right and left shoes match in color and also check for overall quality of finish (excess cement or dirt, loose threads, wrinkles, etc.). Any shoes found with problems at this stage are either sent back down the line to be fixed if possible (like small areas that need to be cleaned), or rejected completely, destroyed, and not packed with the order.



This step is also when the shoes are finally completely laced up.




After the final QC inspection, a set of workers add all the additional packing materials that are attached to the shoes. Hangtags, extra laces in small ziploc bags, etc.



From the end of the line, the shoes are put onto a conveyor that lifts them to an adjacent room, the Packing Room.



In the packing room, the inner cartons (shoe boxes) are put together, and the shoes are wrapped in tissue paper, and put into the shoe boxes. The correct stickers are also put on the shoe boxes that indicate the model, color and sizze of the shoe that is inside.



Lastly, the shoeboxes are stacked up temporarily, and then finally placed into larger cartons 10 or 12 pairs per box, all erady to be shipped to the final warehouse destination, the store, and then finally into the hands of the customer!







Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

Sorry it has been a while since the last post. Time flys when deep in the heart of the development season, and i've been in Asia a total of 24 days during the last month and half!

In any case, heres the second to last in the Football Boot Production Series....Assembly.

Assebly is the final production process before packing and final inspection in the manufacturing of a football boot. In this step, the finished stitched/lasted upper is prepared and attached to the outsole. I know I say this for all steps, but this is as well a truely important step.

If the upper and outsole are incorrectly prepared or assembled, there can be big problem of delamination (when the outsole breaks away from the outsole) during the agressive wear that a football boot encoutners on the pitch.

More info and pics after the Read More link below.




The first step in assembly is to prepare the outsole. A special primer and cement is applied to the TPU outsole by hand. The worker must ensure that all areas are correctly covered with the right amount of cement in an even coating.



The special primer/cement is cured by UV lights to activate the glue.




Meanwhile, the lasted upper is buffed using a small electric hand sanding type wheel, to rough the leather around on the bottom to better help allow it to be cemented to the outsole. The buffing ensures that the fibres of the leather are open and the cement penetrates enough to get good bonding.



The lasted upper is then attached to the outsole. This must be done very carefully to ensure the outsole is put on straight and inline with the upper. The toe is first attached, then the heel, the the center area is presseed into place by hand.



The cemented upper and outsole are then pressed together using a hydraulic press which applies a constant pressure for a contant time to get good bonding between the upper and outsole. To ensure even pressure is applied to the main outsole bootom, a special silicone molded form is placed under the upper (you can see it is a tan color) which has a negative shape of the outsole mold into it. Without this press pad, the pressing machine would only apply pressure to the stud tips which would warp the studs and not provie any pressure to the main outsole bottom which must bond to the upper bottom.



the final step is the insertion of the metal rivets in the outsole bottom. For this a rivet machine is used which is loaded like a machine gun with multiple rounds of rivets, and then activated by the operator with a foot pedal when the outsole is in place. The metal rivets go through the TPU outsole and lasting board to provide additional bonding strength to hold the outsole on.



Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

One of the most important steps in footwear production, is lasting. This process gives a shoe its shape, and as mentioned before, the last is key in good fit and comfort.

This is even more important in a football boot where touch and fit and very important to performance.

More info and pics after the Read More link below.





The lasting process comes after the full upper is stiched together. At this point, the upper is prelaced before lasting. For the majority of football boots, the lasting process used is a type called "board" or "cement" lasting. This type of lasting gives a football boot more stiffness and better feel. Other types of lasting (mostly used for running type shoes) include strobel (slip) lasting and california lasting.





For board lasting, a cardboard type tuck board is placed at the bottom of the last that the upper will be cemented to. If you lift up the sockliner liner of a football boot or other type of boot made this way, you will see this board.

For board lasting, the upper is placed over the last with the cardboard insole board temporarily glued to the bottom of the last, and into a lasting machine. You can see the workers adding glue to the inside of the the upper and to the cardboard insole (laying over the upper on the conveyor) in the above pic.

A toe lasting machine has grips that grip the edge of the upper in the toe around the bottom of the last and pull it down over the last shape. One set up with the grips attached to the upper material, the lasting machine operator adjusts the tension of the pull and lines up the upper on the last using a laser guide.



When the operator has achieved the correct alignment and pull strength, the upper is stretched over the last and "wipers" force the upper material under the last over the cardboard part. In addition sometimes injected TPU type glue is used for football shoes that is directly injected between the upper and insole board during the lasting process. This is important for football shoes that have a lot of wear and tear in the toe area. This process is then repeated for the heel area.



The sides of the upper are usually lasted by hand. In this way, a lasting worked uses a pair of plyers and a hammer to pull the upper material near the waist (arch) of the shoe tight, and hammer them flat to the cardboard insole board. Lasting this area by hand is good so that the operator can make small manual adjustments to how much is the upper is pulled to create a good fit tight on the last. As leather materials are often used for fotoball shoes that have some variability in the amount of stretch this manual lasting can compensate unlike a machine lasting procedure that pulls the same amount every time.





Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

There's been some interest lately on the construction of football boots. Now, you can see what's on the inside!

Check the Read More link below for more pics and info.



There is almost more that goes into a football boot on the inside than is visible on the outside. One of the most important things to assure good fit, comfort and performance (aside from the last) is the inner reinforcement and construction.



A properly constructed shoe, will hold its shape well, and be optimized to work with the material of the upper.



Although each style, or brand may be constructed slightly differently depending on materials, price and manufacturing method, most boots in general have the same 4 main components; upper material, foam, reinforcement, and foam.



Each material inside serves a different purpose. The upper material, as discussed earlier, here gives the overall touch, comfort and feeling of a boot.



The foam also adds some touch and feeling making the surface more soft and responsive. The non-woven material is used to help control the stretch of the upper material (all natural materials will have soem stretch because of the natrual grain structure), and the lining material also works in this way.