How a Football Boot is Made

This series covers the full scope of production processes.

While the manufacturing production process might vary depending on the design of the shoe (ie. if it is a football boot or running shoe), and the specifics of each step in the process may be done in a slightly different way from factory to factory, the general process and steps involved is the same.

Click the Read More link below to view the the production process of the hummel 4.2 Concept FGC football boot, produced in China.



Click the Post Titles below for each part in the series.

Introduction

Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

Leather Tanning

While in China I had the opportunity to check out a leather tannery that produces cow and kangaroo finished products for many top brands' performance and lifestyle footwear.

This particulary tannery doesnt process the raw hides, but rather recieves them in "wet blue" form from local manufacturers or imports skins from Australia/New Zealand (kangaroo leather) or Europe (cow leather).

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info about the leather tanning process.






A "wet blue" is a semi processes skin, that is indeed, both wet and blue. The wet blue skin is a result of a chrome tanning process that is done after raw hide is fleshed and the meat and hair is removed and is designed to keep the skins soft and ready for further processing and free from bacterial growth.





Once the wet blue skins are recieved, they are first soaked in water to soften the skin. Then they go through a process called "semming" (not sure about the spelling of this, anyone have the correct term?), which pushes the water out of the skin, but keeps it soft to work with.

Skins are then "shaved" using a special machine that has a fine sandpaper like roller, which makes the skin (especially the bottom surface) more smooth and even.





After this, the skins are split to the correct thickness by being put through a machine that has knife edge which can accurately split the skin in crosssection.







Skins are then graded and measured. Measurement of processed skins is done using a special table that hasa computer controlled laser system which can determine the square footage of the particular skin and add the quantity to inventory.





After the wet blue process, the skins can then be drum dyed, to set a color or finish. The drum dying process involves putting the skins in giant drums along with various chemicals and dyes. A typical skin may go through 4-5 different 40 mintue cycles of dying with different chemicals for a 6 hour total process. Some special finishes can take up to 12 hours of drum dying.



Skins are then air dried for 2-3 days depending of the temperature and humidity inside the factory and can take up to 1 week in particularily cold or wet weather. the the above and below photos you can see the skins hanging from the ceiling on a conveyor system to dry.

Footwear Photoshop Rendering Tutorial > parts 1-6

While every designer has their own method for Photoshop renderings (and I'm by no means an expert), I do get a lot of requests for the process that I typically take to create a presentation rendering. I've put together a little tutorial to show the steps I use.

Click the Read More link below for all 6 parts of this tutorial.



**one note- im doimg this tutotrial from a finished rendering "in reverse" so if you look at the layers or path palettes you will ALL the final layers/palettes that exist at the end of rendering. ive just "un-viewed" the layers to work backwards to show how its done forwards. just so nobody gets confused. (R)



To start with, I make do a sketch of the shoe I am going to render to use as an underlay. The more in proportion and accurate this sketch is, the easier it is to do the required line art which will be used as a template for the rendering.

Using illustrator, I place the scanned sketch in a layer and dim the image (under layer > properties). Then using the pen tool, I draw over the image, making frequent use of the pathfinder (cut, intersect shape areas, add to shape areas) tools.






This line art can then be cut and pasted into photoshop. I cut and paste the same artwork twice. Once as a Path, and once as pixels. The paths are used as cutting paths and masks for the rendering, and the pixels just give a good quick easy overlay/underlay to the rendering so you can see whats going on.




From the path palette, you can select (using the black arrow path modifier tool) different parts of your work path (I usually rename to "All", or something like that). Once you have part of the body shape you want (I start with an outline shape that is whole upper), you can cut and paste that path to create a new path (renamed Body).

This path can then be selected (the little button at the bottom of the Path palette with the dashed line circle), and you can make a new layer to start painting into. As I work, I find it important to keep my layers and paths well organized and named (instead of "Layer 38"), so its easy to find them later. By the end of the rendering I typically end up with something like 30 paths and 60 layers, so having some meaningful name helps a lot.

Once you have a new layer, and a selected area, you can use the paint bucket tool to paint a solid color base for your rendering.




Continued-

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

Part 6

how to prepare rubber in 1m03s

Footwear Terminology

A to Z of footwear technical terms, construction methods, part names, and more.


Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor, retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.

3D sketch exercise

Another good excercise for those not so comfortable drawing footwear in 3D. Sketch a range of upper and outsole 3D views, without worrying about the design. Repeat, daily!

an quick example of a 3d sketch session.

R

design by category

Some good discussions going on now on the core77 footwear forums at http://boards.core77.com/viewforum.php?f=24

Once discussion is about designing a shoe for a specific category, and how to express a product DNA through proportion, pattern and form to fit.

I've suggested the following tip-

One trick I find in designing any type of shoes for a particular category is first finding out what "defines" shoes in that category. Already lots of the things have been mentioned (proportion, pattern, materials, colors, collar height, toe cap shapes, etc.). Once you learn the often repeated shapes, forms, etc. then it is that much easier to use these in new ways, redefine common elements and mix new with old.

One "rule" i usually guide new designers with, I call "3 new, 3 familiar". I suggest that if you use 3 common things in a shoe tied to that category (such as proportion, construction, color, a toe cap, materials, etc.), and mix it with 3 "new" things, then the shoe will be balanced between understandable/commercial and different/innovative. Too much familiar and the design is boring and doesnt stand out, and too much new and the design is too challenging and doesnt relate to the consumer or product category.

As a start, I find this is a good way to get a feeling for the "rules" and mix creativity with reality.

Too often, I find younger footwear designers have this balance off, and go either too far out (anit-gravity, magic fastener, space boot looking designs,) or too safe (looks like everything already out there). Finding this balance is important I believe to channel your creativity into useable, fresh, portfolio work.

Here's a challenge -

1. take an existing design from any type of shoe.

2. redraw this shoe to fit in different categories (ie. running, basketball, trail, court, etc.) changing the pattern as little as possible but still making the new design fit to the category.

start this exercise with just linework. Its more difficult if you dont use color.

Doing this, you will quickly find out the things that can make any design "feel" right to the product category. A good way to decode a product category and product DNA.

R

above is an example of this exercise based on a design by ak47celtics from the footwear forum.

hummel Character, DNA

The concept of character is very important in all hummel products. Character since 1923 is now the company tagline (our "Just Do It"), and this concept evolved and was first developed in footwear.

I first created the "Jeg har Karakter" concept ("I have Character", in Danish) for my first new football collection with hummel, the 2006 Collection. (see post here about the concept and design brief in the 6.2 Concept FG Case Study).

Click the Read More link below for the full story of the development of hummel Footwear Character, product DNA.



As the time, the idea was to frame the collection and provide a matrix concept and reasoning for the all new models to be designed as well as a marketing strategy.

The first step, was looking at the football market and competitors. I felt it was important to attach a concept and theme to hummel football footwear products that hummel could "own". Seeing as how Adidas represented (for the most part) heritage (even though the hummel brand is older), Nike represented Technology, and Puma represented Lifestyle.

As well, given the nature of our small brand compared to the Big 3, and lack of high profile players and teams under sponsorship, combined with our strategy of "non-marketing" and alternative sponsorship (ie. The Tibet National Team) a different competitve strategy was needed.

The "Jeg har Karakter" concept embraced these issues. Character was something unique that hummel could bring (a alternative approach to different aspects of performance, lifestyle, and design) to the market and targeted and celebrated the individual player not the $100 Million dollar athlete.

The idea was solidified with the definition of 3 different Character types that defined the product mix.



The 4 Series Character is traditional, professional, respectful of the heritage of the game.



The 6 Series Character is the "Rock Star", technical, but unique in personality, not afraid to be different, and connected to fashion.



The 8 Series Character is highly refined, technical, focused on performance and efficiency in skill and control.

Most importantly, the Character concept was broad enough yet specific to provide an open umbrella for a multi-target product approach and fit well with the storytelling approach to marketing hummel has championed for a long time.

Text I wrote from the first Football 2006 Catalog-

Imagine life without stories. Events only existing in the present. No recollection of our history, or dreams for the future. From generation to generation we have passed down stories since man has existed in tribes. These tribes/groups are defined by the stories they tell.

Imagine stories without characters. Tales only of inanimate places, things, stuff. It is in fact the characters of our stories, and by our own character in life that we define ourselves within the groups and teams we live and play. We are all characters. We are all individuals. Characters are integral to creating excitement.

In developing the hummel Football 2006 Collection, we have considered the individual characteristics of the characters present in any team. Exploring each product as a character we have combined technology, design and style to engineer a cast of unique personalities.

We are all Characters. We all have Character.

Jeg har Karakter.

EVen before this character concept, one of the very first (I think I created it for a presentation about my new footwear direction given 2 weeks after I started in June 2004) and most important things I established at hummel, was the footwear DNA concept.

This DNA concept describes the relationship of different products and different product categories as related with similar characteristics in design and concept.

This DNA was developed to bring all footwear products closer and define a strong brand identity.

Visually, you can see these in various details and patterns that are used across product categories including the rear mudgaurd pattern, rounded punched eyelets with embroidery (which has a shape similar to the shape of the "L" in hummel, rear heel window patterns.







This DNA concept has been in uses on all collections since the establishment of the new footwear dept. at hummel and is evident in the design of the new 8.4 PIO FGX.



This DNA concept has also been applied bringing the PIO (Per Invitation Only Concept) to sport. The 8.4 PIO FGX was the first technical teamsports product in hummel to be under the PIO label, and has now set the direction for the PIO label to be applied to all products across categories in both footwear and apparel.



Taking the root idea of PIO, exclusivity, luxury, uniqueness, lifestyle and storytelling, the 8.4 PIO FGX brings these elements to our top technical boot (remember 8 Series products are focused for the technical player). In this way, the 8.4 PIO FGX adopts some characteristics of the 6 series (Rock Star player), and links with the DNA established in other footwear categories.

Likewise the 4.2 PIO FGC in camo Pittards WR100X Analine leather adopts some feel of the 6 Series (Rock Star) and 8 Series (Technical) with a unique, high performance military spec material treatment.

8.4 PIO FGX is here!

Finally! After more than 1 year in development and production the first 8.4 PIO FGX production shoes arrived today at the office direct from our warehouse (via the factory in China, of course).

The 8.4 PIO FGX has, since the project inception, been my "baby" and incorporates the culmination of several years of work in rebranding the hummel footwear product.

From the design of new box, new sockliner technology, new graphics, new hangtags, new outsole, new upper, new materials and more, I have been involved in every aspect of the 8.4 (in addition to all the other products.

Coming tomorrow and later this week, The Unboxing, and more on the thinking, and details that went into the final 8.4 PIO FGX product.

R

8.4 FGX first pullover samples

I'm still working on a more complete post with detailed notes about the development of the 8.4 FGX, but in the meantime, I came across some early pullover pics I would like to share.

The initial idea for the 8.4 FGX was a lightweight, breathable mesh football boot, inspired by our indoor shoe, the 9.3.

Click the Read more link below for more pics of the initial concept and pullover.



As development progressed in consultation with sales, testing and marketing, the concept evolved into the current 8.4 FGX, for a number of reasons, including the commonly wet weather and low demand for mesh football boots in our main markets of northern Europe and Scandinavia.

Below, you can clearly see the pattern inspiration and material influence in these first samples of the 8.4, taken directly from the 9.3 indoor shoe with a nylon screen mesh over top an airmesh quarter with hot melt TPU details.

Footwear Rendering

Following my recent Photoshop rendering tutorial I've got a lot of great responses and questions. One of which I thought I would address here.




Q. "How do you render a white or light color shoe without it looking dirty?"

A. It all depends on the consitency of your shading and highlights. You can also play with the overal lighting and general mood to help your rendering pop out.

I threw together the above rendering as an example. As you can see, the 8.4 PIO FGX is a white pearl color, not 100% bright white, but the same would still hold true. Shading is done in a warmer tone (not black) to give a more natural feel, and the darker background and reflective floor help me get away with a darker upper shading without looking too strange.

Hope this helps!

R

The rendering does look white, but you do get the impression you are looking at a light colored shoe, i hope.

hummel Old School SS07 part 5 > specification and colors

Concurrently with the pattern development, colorway options and material specification is worked out.

To develop narrow down the colorway and final spec, first, a wide range of color options are quickly explored. Using the outline drawings of the style in illustrator, a number of different directions can be discussed and looked at.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.

Normally, the footwear designer will first create many options, then later reduce the options and further develop the stronger ideas, to present to Sales and Marketing for consultation and final selection.

Once the colorways for each style have been explored, and an overall line plan direction identified (at hummel, because we have such small collections, with few styles, I try to create a strong collection theme or plan in colors/materials), material and color specification is determined.




This process involves picking the Pantone colors for each part and the corresponding material. At this stage, for simple shoes like these, an jpeg file is created from Illustrator with material callouts for the factory to follow.

Interview and 8.4 PIO FGX review on Foot-Boots.com

Ive just finished an exclusive interview with Alan from Footy-Boots.com that is now posted. The interview discusses some of the thoughts behind the new football boots and the design and development process at hummel.

Link to Interview

Footy-Boots.com also has a nice review of the 8.4 PIO FGX as well.

8.4 PIO FGX review


www.footy-boots.com

Indoor 2007 concept design

To share, some more content from the upcoming Indoor 2007 catalog. These sketches are from the concept design of the new indoor shoe, 11.1 that features an integrated design assembly for ultimate fit.

More to come soon on this new concept.

Indoor 2007 catalog photoshoot

As mentioned, the latest Indoor 2007 catalog will also feature a lot of design/development process work. Sketches, photos of sample, factory production, etc.

To capture the development process from the design studio perspective, another photosession session was set up, moving more than 10 boxes of papers, samples, binders and bits from our real office to a photo studio. Due to the tight space and lighting, it was impossible to capture our actual studio environment.

Click the Read More link below for more pics of the photosession and "design studio" pics.





As you can see (and I'll maybe post pics of our real studio sometime soon if possible), the studio shots capture all elements of the design process.

Quite a bit less messy than my real desk, perhaps, the studio environment is, indeed, one filled with a variety of materials, inspiration, binders, samples and bits of shoes.

hummel Old School SS07 part 4 > development, cont'd

Depending on the project, normally more than one pullover sample is made to correct and determine the pattern. A complicated, technical shoe may take up to 5 rounds of samples to get right.

For the development of the SS07 Stadil, we went through 2 rounds of pullover samples, adjusting mostly small details and further refining the design on the second round.

Click the Read More link below to see the second round samples and corrections.

Click on the images above and below for a larger photo to read correction points.

hummel Old School SS07 part 3 > development

Once the design had been transferred to a half gauge pattern by the pattern-maker in Asia, a first pullover sample was made to review.

In reviewing this pullover, several changes and adjustments were made to the pattern in order to try to keep the look as close as possible to the original, and the overall look in keeping with the retro style.

Given that there are really no "rules" for most of these points and the final result is somewhat subjective, it is down to the experience and skill of the designer/developer to correct the pullover and make improvements.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.


As you can see, even a relatively basic style such as this requires a lot of adjustment and modification. Small changes like collar height, throat width and toecap shape all make the difference between a nice looking shoe and a bad looking shoe.

Click on the images above and below for a larger photo to read correction points.

hummel Old School SS07 part 2 > design

Taking inspiration from photos of the original style, line artwork was created to develop the pattern of the new product.

While following the original as closely as possible, some changes were made to update the style. These included adding a woven label on the tongue with English and Danish text (based on the tongue logo of another vintage style), changing the chevron pattern was update to reflect our current logo standards and dimensions, and using a newer vulcanized outsole instead of the original handball rubber cupsole.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.



The name was also revised to be "Stadil", based on Christian Stadil Hansen, national team keeper and relative of hummel Creative Director Christian Stadil. Christian Stadil Hansen still ranks in the top 20 of All Time greatest handball players with 146 Denmark National Team Games. Giving more personality and history to the shoe, this new name reflects our company philosophy of "Charater Since 1923".

hummel Old School SS07 part 1 > vintage inspiration

New for SS07 (coming Jan/Feb 2007) are several styles inspired by actual vintage
products. Unfortunately, almost no samples were kept from our rich 83 year history, and little more than back catalogs from the 1980s and few earlier photos remain in our archive.

To bring back from our past key styles, equal parts of creativity and development were needed to recreate designs only using grainy catalog photos.

Clck the Read More link below for more info and pics.


One such style inspired by hummel handball history is the 'Stadil'.

Inspired by an original 1980's style called "Handball Ten" (also shown in some catalogs as the "Zurich"), the Stadil authentically recreates pattern and design language of he original model and adds new retro inspired details and contemporary appeal.

Switzerland, FC Thun testing

Its been more than a month since my trip to Switzerland, but a very busy schedule here and more travel have meant I havent been able to post earlier.

In any case, here's some pics and info from the trip.

For the most part, the trip was a special visit to hummel sponsored club FC Thun. As you may remember Thun qualified for the Champions League last season, and I attended one of their final group stage games against Ajax in Bern, Switzerland.

More info and pics after the Read More link below.




This trip, the meeting with the team at their home pitch in Thun focused on presenting the new 2007 Football boot collection, and working directly with a few of the players selected to test new 2007 products.



Overall, the response to the new collection was overwhelmingly positive with demand for test shoes higher than samples we had to give! Keep an out out in future matches and training sessions for these new hummel boots on the feet on FC Thun.















The Thun home pitch and training facilities were also great to see. Located in the foot of the Bernese Obleand Swiss mountains, by lake Thun, the view and beauty of the surrounding environment are incredible. Surely one of the best locations possible to train and inspire an athlete!