Footwear Terminology

A to Z of footwear technical terms, construction methods, part names, and more.


Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor, retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.

hummel Technologies design

As mentioned in the 8.4 PIO FGX Unboxing post, I have been involved in more than just "footwear design" here at hummel. A large part of my work is the strategic design and creative direction of the hummel Footwear brand.

One of the very first things I did after starting at hummel 2.5 years ago was to build up a portfolio and create a brand package for technology and performance features that are used in our footwear.

Click the Read More link below for more information.



The purpose of this technology portfolio was to further communicate the unique performance aspects of our shoes and create a better understanding of performance and value in the mind of our customers.




The above Technology Matrix I designed to visually communicate the idea that different parts of the shoe (ie. upper, outsole, etc.) use and feature different type of technologies (ie. cushioning, breathability, etc.) Each technology is therefore tuned and focused depending on the location and application of the part/implementation.

Together with this matrix, I created a series of names and logos to be identified with each product benefit. We went through lots of different ideas for names, some really terrible (ie. matress for cushioning) and others just strange (ie. TSS, Thorax Support System, based on words from a bee's body, for support).



As well, the graphic icons went through several rounds of design iterations. Here's some early explorations.







The final logos and technology micro-brands are now used across all our technical footwear product, and some technical apparel as well. Every performance shoe includes a hangtag with the tech logos and matrix and tech logos are also incorporated into the product design of the footwear.









A small point that some may not notice, but something that help make the product and the details stand out for a consumer.

8.4 PIO FGX Unboxing

I am a big believer in total product experience. As such a lot of my effort here at hummel as Footwear Dept. Manager has been not only focused on the footwear product, but the supplemental things that combine to create a positive experience for the consumer. This includes packaging, graphics, instructions and more.

As you will see in the post below, the new 8.4 PIO FGX really presents a total branded experience and value. I was the designer for all product graphics, packaging and additional graphic material (hangtags, etc).

Click the Read More link below for the full Unboxing (more than 30 pics and comments)of the 8.4 PIO FGX.







New matte silver box design features a repeated chevron pattern I created to highlight the unique blend of performance and lifestyle character in every hummel product. Box top includes the "Jeg har Karakter" ("I have Character") logo I created and first introduced in the Football 2006 Collection. The concept (now adapted into the hummel corporate tagline "Character Since 1923") represents the unique position that hummel targets, identifying personality and Character and creating products (like the 8.4 PIO FGX) to serve these Character types.



Extra performance CM EVA sockliner is included with every pair.





In box sticker highlighting the revolutionary hmlFIT Customized Fit Technology heat sockliner features and benefits. Check my previous post here for more info.













The 8.4 PIO FGX upper is 100% Pittards Goat Skin leather. This minibook I created (and did the Goat icon for) gives an overview of the materials features and benefits (incl. 20% higher abrasion resistance than Kangaroo leather), and also explains how to best care for your new Goat Skin leather boots (just wipe with a damp cloth and allow to air dry). More about the Goat Skin leather in a previous post, here.





The 8.4 PIO FGX includes lots of hangtags that identify the many performance features and unique innovations that are included on the boot. Being a small brand, with limited marketing budget, it is important to communicate directly with the consumer about the product. Hangtags are a good way that allows the product to speak for iteself, in the absence of million dollar advertising campaigns and in a sport shop environment where the retailer may not be familiar with all technical aspects of the product. As shown, hangtags I designed included with the 8.4 PIO FGX; Goat Skin Leather, Silver hummel hangtag, hummel Technology hangtag, hmlFIT Customized Fit Sockliner hangtag and additional Pittards hangtag (provided by Pittards).



hummel Technology hangtag features 6 hummel technologies with icons, names and features graphics I created as a part of our hummel footwear branding portfolio 2.5 years ago. Distinct hummel technology logos and icons help identify and communicate important performance and technical features to the consumer and make highlight product unique selling points.



Each pair of 8.4 PIO FGX also includes an limited edition Pittards Goat Skin Leather Bee keychain!











Laser etched monogram bee upper. Be sure to check my previous post here for more pics and info about the features of this unique boot.











New FGX outsole with a comination plate of traction and conical studs for superior traction, saftey and comfort. Check my earlier post here for more info. Note the nice laser etched leather detail with Bee logo on the outsole heel!







hmlFit Customized Fit Technology sockliner can be molded to your feet using heat for the perfect fit. Dual density, anatomical performance sockliner has two layers of CM EVA; Black- high density for support and control, Red- heat activated layer provides fit, comfort and cushioning. Check my earlier post here about this new technology.



Enjoy! The 8.4 PIO FGX should be in shops now (availability depending on market and distribution, with a recommended retail price of 220 Euro.

Check back soon for lots more posts coming up about the inspiration, design and development of the 8.4 PIO FGX.

R

8.4 PIO FGX featured on BusinessWeek/Innovation&Design

The 8.4 PIO FGX was featured today on 3 great design/innovation websites! Check out the links.

BusinessWeek Innovation&Design (Design Snapshots halfway down the page)
Core77 Studio Bullits
Core77

hmlFIT customized fit technology

Looking for the Perfect Fit? Using a revolutionary new smart-foam material, this sockliner system can be custom molded to your foot using heat for ultimate comfort and performance.

A custom molded sockliner provides maximum surface contact with the foot, ensuring fewer pressure points and better performance and control.

This special sockliner is included with all 8.4 Concept/Elite FGX boots.

Click the Read More link below for more details.







1. Heat
Warm sockliners in a regular or convection oven (warning: do not use a microwave oven at 100° C (212°F) for 2 minutes to activate red custom foam layer.



2. Customize fit
Remove sockliners from the oven and immediately place them into your football boots. Put your boots on, fully laced up and stand with your weight equally balanced for 2 mintues to customize fit.




3. Use
You may walk around while the insoles are still warm to improve the impression in the toe area. Insoles are now ready for use.


*Be sure to check complete instructions and warnings included with product inside box for more information.

More info coming soon.

hummel football 2007 NEW 8.4 Concept FGX preview

First pics here of the NEW 2007 8.4 Concept FGX!

As mentioned, this new boot features our hmlFIT Customized Fit Technology which is a heat moldable sockliner. I believe, that this boot developed from the inside out, may be one of the best fitting and most comfortable boots on the market.

Click the Read More link below for additional pics and specs.




In addtion, specs include-

-NEW Wide-fit anatomical last for maximum control and comfort
-Pittards WR Premiership Goat Skin Leather upper
-Asymmetric design for anatomical fit and increased strike zone
-Dynamic, integral customized lock-fit lacing system for adjustable fit
-Glass fiber heel inserts for lightweight support
-hmlFIT Customized Fit Technology heat moldable sockliner for personal fit and ultimate performance
-NEW FGX firm ground combination stud traction outsole with DYNAsymm chassis and hGRIP pivot point studs
-PE molded internal midsole
-TR molded internal heel counter
-Extra CM EVA technical sockliner included








Released 2007. More info on additional colorways and takedowns to come.

hummel football 2007 NEW preview > 4.2 Concept FGX/SG

New for 2007, the hummel 4.2 Concept FGC/SG features an exciting new material > Pittards WR100X Analine Goat Skin.

The military use this leather for the very thin, but high performance gloves worn by the Special Forces who jump out of helicopters and slide down ropes to action. In these high wear circumstances, gloves are required that will give good water and sweat resistance, but also excellent touch and softness feeling like a second skin. It is also very important that these special gloves prevent rope burn and wear.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.





In our new football boots, these combination of unique features (softness, touch, weather and sweat resistance and high abrasion resistance (20% more than K-leather), make it the perfect material for premium control and performance.This uniquely finished natural aniline offers up to 5 times higher breathability than standard Kangaroo Leather with no sacrifice in water or sweat resistance.

In addition, as it is a very lightweight leather with a unique fibre structure, the resulting boot is 22% lighter than the copa and comparable classic leather boots.

Unlike reguar-finish leathers, this Analine leather needs no "break-in" period. It is super soft fresh from the box, and will only improve and mold to your feet with wear. As well, because of the Analine finish, the surface of the leather has a more dull, natural similar to some baseball batting gloves or driving gloves.





The 4.2 Concept features a classic round FGC outsole, or soft ground SG outsole, and a great mix of classic style with modern technical advantages included a glass reinforced heel counter, and asymmetrical design.

Dk. Grey/White/Gold

To be released Jan 2007

hummel football 2007 NEW FGX outsole preview

As mentioned earlier, one of the most exciting things about the new coming 2007 hummel football collection is the development of a 100% new boot, the 8.4 Concept FGX.

The boot was designed from the ground-up (or inside out, depending how you want to view it), and features a number of revolutionary new innovations designed encourage the best fit and performance possible.

One of these important developments, is the new FGX outsole.

Click the Read More link below to learn more about some of the features of the new FGX outsole.



Build around a completely new, wide fit, anatomical last, the new FGX outsole was designed foremost to offer the maximum balance of performance in comfort and traction.

Featuring a combination of stud shapes, the FGX uses rounded blade studs for grip and control on the majority of the studs. These studs are constructed with a visible dual density TPU column in the center, that helps transfer energy and impact to the internal midsole.



To help protect against the traditional concerns of traction blades, ACL injuries, the FGX outsole features a unique pivot point design in the medial forefoot area, with 3 conical studs as typically found on a classic round stud design.

This pivot point and use of round studs, help enable good grip and quick direction changes and avoids the problems of over-traction that ocurr sometimes with bladed designs. The result is a safer and more comfortable performance.


In addition to these features, the FGX outsole has been designed around a DYNAsymm internal latice chassis. This support grid offers good strength, flexibility and reduced weight. Using a truss-like X beam structure, like a bridge beam construction, a minimum of material can be used to provide great strength. Unlike lightweight carbon fibre, which can have too much spring, and is prone to snaping under extreme loads, the TPU DYNAsymm chassis will evenly flex and bend and responds more like a normal outsole.



As well, for top quality durability, the FGX outsole has 4 metal rivets per outsole, including one placed in the medial forefoot, and a custom metal logo rivet in the heel. Most boots have only 1 or two. These rivets help protect against delamination.

stay tuned for more info and pics coming soon!

R

sneak peak, hummel football 2007 collection

OK all,

Here's the exclusive first news of the hummel 2007 Football collection, to be released Jan 2007.

The 2007 collection (as was 2006) is focused on 3 top models, for different kinds of players. Rather than based only on position, or features (ie. lightweight, etc.) it is based on personality and "Character", and all offer a wide variety of exciting technical and performance features. More on these characters to come (or feel free to dig up some of the posts I made last year about the concept).

The 3 (top) models are...

(More info after the Read More Link below)

R

4.2 Concept FG/SG
For 2007 this boot features a new type of military-spec Goat Skin Leather which makes the boot 22% lighter than the Copa, and 5 times more breathable. Ultimate natural touch and softness, and feel.

6.2 Concept FG
Fully synthetic boot as per 2006 with new colorway for 2007.

8.4 Concept FGX
This boot is 100% new (new last, design, outsole) and our biggest story.
Inspired, in part, by all those SP posts about trying to get the "perfect fit" with using all kinds of crazy methods (showers?!), and in part by the personalized service we offer professionals, this boot features a true user customized fit.

Using a special sockliner technology that can be custom molded to fit your foot using heat, and a new wide last, this boot is perhaps the best fitting, most comfortable boot on the market.

Additional features include super soft and abrasion resistant Goat Skin Leather, glass fibre reinforced heel coutner, fully customizable lacing system and an all new hybrid traction/classic stud outsole.


Additionally, based on the success of last year's limited edition (6.2 Concept FG Pony, 1923 pairs worldwide), there will be two new ultimate special edition boots.

Stay tuned for more info and pics coming up!

Cheers,

indoor 7.1 outsole development > revised model

Once the corrections to the first model and technical drawing have been made, the mold maker in asia makes a revised tech drawing and model for my review.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and final correction to the 7.1 outsole model before the sample mold is made.





Overall, the second model much better represents the final outsole design. The width and proportion of the outsole bottom has been changed to be more slim at the waist, and in the heel area, while maximizing surface contact area for grip. you can see the difference in shape compared to the first model below.





The second model corrected some of the assembly issues as previously mentioned with the stabilizer and outsole, but as shown here there was still a misunderstanding about the shape and assembly of the TPU stabilizer. The TPU stabilizer was intended to be a flat part assembled between the bottom midsole and outsole rubber. Similar to how it was created in the first model, but without the pegs. In communication with mold makers and technical people in asia, whose first language is not english, sometimes these things happen...



Here hou can clearly see the 3Di cushioning system. This cushioning system is designed to allow displacement or material into the holes from the top and bottom midsole to allow for good comfort and shock absorption. Unlike an air bag or other insert that uses a pressurized gas or liquid, this system cannot pop or leak under the extreme pressure of court performance of some very big players.



On the forefoot lateral side, there is an outrigger feature built into the rubber outsole. This outrigger helps give a physical feedback to the player who can then better control their movement in fast side-to-side lateral position changes. The effect actually is more psychological and cognitive than physical (its not big enough to stop you from rolling over), but works like a cat's whiskers help a cat to be aware of their location.



Corrected modified herringbone tread pattern for good grip on a court surface.



The waist features an airflow system created by the physical construction of the two CM EVA midsole parts. working through holes in the top midsole and a channel between the two parts, in combination with a special upper construction, the shoe is better allowed to breathe for better performance and comfort.

indoor 7.1 outsole development > technical drawing and model

After I send the initial technical drawing to asia, the mold maker begins the process of converting my artwork to useable technical dimensions and a creates a 2D technical drawing for my review.

Because my initial technical drawing is not a true 3D CAD file (only done in ilustrator), there are sometimes dimensions or features that cannot be realized in production or are open to interpretation. By making and checking a 2D drawing from the mold maker, all features and dimensions can be confirmed.

Click Read More for more pics and description of the process.






Once the 2D drawing is checked and confirmed (usually several rounds of small modifications are required), the mold maker creates a 3D "wooden" model. This model is made from a Renshape-type material (a type of very dense, synthetic wood with no grain structure). This model is made by CNC (computer controlled) milling machine, then finished and painted by hand to help give an idea of the look and features of the outsole.

This model (along with another 2D drawing) can then be checked, and features modified if requried to correct dimensions, features and review potential molding issues.



For example in this model, if you look at the yellow waist stabilizer part, you will see many small pegs that fit into the outsole. This was interpreted incorrectly from the drawing and would be almost impossible to make in production. Instead, the stabilizer was supposed to be flat, showing through the holes in the outsole.



As well, you can see in this model, that the tread pattern was misinterpreted as well. Essentially in reverse, the tread was made as recesses rather than raised feautres.





Stay tuned for pics of the revised model and corrections..

indoor 7.1 outsole development > technical design

The new indoor outsole designed for the 7.1 and 9.1 models was developed to incorporate a number of technical features and innovations.

The outsole was developed with the specific needs of handball players in mind, offering excellent grip, stability, comfort and control.

More pics and tech info after the Read More link.






The 7.1/9.1 outsole is half double lasted (double lasted in the forefoot). This gives extra stability and control, with the upper material overlapping the internal midsole, cemented between the rubber outsole and midsole.



The CM EVA midsole si also designed to feature a two part, dual density midsole construction with integral cushioning in the form of a 3Di cushioning channel. Unlike air, or a gel cushioning system, this physical system relies on a design and displacment to cushion a player, and cant pop or leak.



The 7.1/9.1 outsole also features a TPU shank for added stability. Above the TPU between the layers of midsole CM EVA there is also an incorporated breathability system (HTCS) that allows airflow into the upper thanks to a breathable insole construction and material.



The technical design for this outsole (after the concept drawings) was created using Adobe Illustrator, detailing all the required dimensions, features and cross sections for the mold maker in asia to translate into a working technical 3D drawing. Click the below drawing for a larger view.



Next step, technical drawing revisions and 3D model review.