Footwear Terminology

A to Z of footwear technical terms, construction methods, part names, and more.


Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor, retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.

8.4 FGX first pullover samples

I'm still working on a more complete post with detailed notes about the development of the 8.4 FGX, but in the meantime, I came across some early pullover pics I would like to share.

The initial idea for the 8.4 FGX was a lightweight, breathable mesh football boot, inspired by our indoor shoe, the 9.3.

Click the Read more link below for more pics of the initial concept and pullover.



As development progressed in consultation with sales, testing and marketing, the concept evolved into the current 8.4 FGX, for a number of reasons, including the commonly wet weather and low demand for mesh football boots in our main markets of northern Europe and Scandinavia.

Below, you can clearly see the pattern inspiration and material influence in these first samples of the 8.4, taken directly from the 9.3 indoor shoe with a nylon screen mesh over top an airmesh quarter with hot melt TPU details.

hummel Old School SS07 part 5 > specification and colors

Concurrently with the pattern development, colorway options and material specification is worked out.

To develop narrow down the colorway and final spec, first, a wide range of color options are quickly explored. Using the outline drawings of the style in illustrator, a number of different directions can be discussed and looked at.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.

Normally, the footwear designer will first create many options, then later reduce the options and further develop the stronger ideas, to present to Sales and Marketing for consultation and final selection.

Once the colorways for each style have been explored, and an overall line plan direction identified (at hummel, because we have such small collections, with few styles, I try to create a strong collection theme or plan in colors/materials), material and color specification is determined.




This process involves picking the Pantone colors for each part and the corresponding material. At this stage, for simple shoes like these, an jpeg file is created from Illustrator with material callouts for the factory to follow.

hummel Old School SS07 part 4 > development, cont'd

Depending on the project, normally more than one pullover sample is made to correct and determine the pattern. A complicated, technical shoe may take up to 5 rounds of samples to get right.

For the development of the SS07 Stadil, we went through 2 rounds of pullover samples, adjusting mostly small details and further refining the design on the second round.

Click the Read More link below to see the second round samples and corrections.

Click on the images above and below for a larger photo to read correction points.

hummel Old School SS07 part 3 > development

Once the design had been transferred to a half gauge pattern by the pattern-maker in Asia, a first pullover sample was made to review.

In reviewing this pullover, several changes and adjustments were made to the pattern in order to try to keep the look as close as possible to the original, and the overall look in keeping with the retro style.

Given that there are really no "rules" for most of these points and the final result is somewhat subjective, it is down to the experience and skill of the designer/developer to correct the pullover and make improvements.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.


As you can see, even a relatively basic style such as this requires a lot of adjustment and modification. Small changes like collar height, throat width and toecap shape all make the difference between a nice looking shoe and a bad looking shoe.

Click on the images above and below for a larger photo to read correction points.

hummel Old School SS07 part 2 > design

Taking inspiration from photos of the original style, line artwork was created to develop the pattern of the new product.

While following the original as closely as possible, some changes were made to update the style. These included adding a woven label on the tongue with English and Danish text (based on the tongue logo of another vintage style), changing the chevron pattern was update to reflect our current logo standards and dimensions, and using a newer vulcanized outsole instead of the original handball rubber cupsole.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.



The name was also revised to be "Stadil", based on Christian Stadil Hansen, national team keeper and relative of hummel Creative Director Christian Stadil. Christian Stadil Hansen still ranks in the top 20 of All Time greatest handball players with 146 Denmark National Team Games. Giving more personality and history to the shoe, this new name reflects our company philosophy of "Charater Since 1923".

hummel Old School SS07 part 1 > vintage inspiration

New for SS07 (coming Jan/Feb 2007) are several styles inspired by actual vintage
products. Unfortunately, almost no samples were kept from our rich 83 year history, and little more than back catalogs from the 1980s and few earlier photos remain in our archive.

To bring back from our past key styles, equal parts of creativity and development were needed to recreate designs only using grainy catalog photos.

Clck the Read More link below for more info and pics.


One such style inspired by hummel handball history is the 'Stadil'.

Inspired by an original 1980's style called "Handball Ten" (also shown in some catalogs as the "Zurich"), the Stadil authentically recreates pattern and design language of he original model and adds new retro inspired details and contemporary appeal.

from the crates II

More good stuff that never saw the light of day.

more pics after the Read More link below.

what's a pullover?

A pullover is the name given to a first prototype sample used in the footwear industry. The first pullover is made from a designer's sketch or drawing, and is the first sample used to check the pattern, last shape, and overall look of a shoe. Typically, the first pullover is made by a sample factory, stitched and lasted by hand from available materials of similar type to the specification of the final shoe. Colors, finish and additional details (like logos, molded parts) are only indicated on the pullover by a marking for location.