How a Football Boot is Made

This series covers the full scope of production processes.

While the manufacturing production process might vary depending on the design of the shoe (ie. if it is a football boot or running shoe), and the specifics of each step in the process may be done in a slightly different way from factory to factory, the general process and steps involved is the same.

Click the Read More link below to view the the production process of the hummel 4.2 Concept FGC football boot, produced in China.



Click the Post Titles below for each part in the series.

Introduction

Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

Footwear Photoshop Rendering Tutorial > parts 1-6

While every designer has their own method for Photoshop renderings (and I'm by no means an expert), I do get a lot of requests for the process that I typically take to create a presentation rendering. I've put together a little tutorial to show the steps I use.

Click the Read More link below for all 6 parts of this tutorial.



**one note- im doimg this tutotrial from a finished rendering "in reverse" so if you look at the layers or path palettes you will ALL the final layers/palettes that exist at the end of rendering. ive just "un-viewed" the layers to work backwards to show how its done forwards. just so nobody gets confused. (R)



To start with, I make do a sketch of the shoe I am going to render to use as an underlay. The more in proportion and accurate this sketch is, the easier it is to do the required line art which will be used as a template for the rendering.

Using illustrator, I place the scanned sketch in a layer and dim the image (under layer > properties). Then using the pen tool, I draw over the image, making frequent use of the pathfinder (cut, intersect shape areas, add to shape areas) tools.






This line art can then be cut and pasted into photoshop. I cut and paste the same artwork twice. Once as a Path, and once as pixels. The paths are used as cutting paths and masks for the rendering, and the pixels just give a good quick easy overlay/underlay to the rendering so you can see whats going on.




From the path palette, you can select (using the black arrow path modifier tool) different parts of your work path (I usually rename to "All", or something like that). Once you have part of the body shape you want (I start with an outline shape that is whole upper), you can cut and paste that path to create a new path (renamed Body).

This path can then be selected (the little button at the bottom of the Path palette with the dashed line circle), and you can make a new layer to start painting into. As I work, I find it important to keep my layers and paths well organized and named (instead of "Layer 38"), so its easy to find them later. By the end of the rendering I typically end up with something like 30 paths and 60 layers, so having some meaningful name helps a lot.

Once you have a new layer, and a selected area, you can use the paint bucket tool to paint a solid color base for your rendering.




Continued-

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

Part 6

Footwear Terminology

A to Z of footwear technical terms, construction methods, part names, and more.


Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor, retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.

Carleton School of Industrial Design

...Just got back from a great weekend up in Ottawa to check out my alma mater, Carleton Universtity School of Industrial Design.

I was honored to be asked to be the keynote speaker at the Alumni Reception on Saturday, and presented my thoughts on design and my experience to the graduating class and ID Alumni.

The Graduation Exhibition, titled 'Open up to Design' features the works of the 4th year students final projects and additional undergrad projects.

From the exhibition info release-

This years’ exhibit showcases a range of exciting and innovative products including out of this world lunar habitation devices and equipment, forest-fire fighting equipment and sports equipment that allows Paralympic athletes to compete at a higher level. Other project areas include products that demonstrate concern for social and environmental issues – patient room prototypes, collaborative ‘art gardens’, and ‘winterpret’ – a product range that harnesses the delight of winter. Projects also explore indoor and outdoor urban living environments from space-conscious ‘transfurnishings’ to rooftop garden products. A special highlight of all ten project areas is the important collaboration with industry. Students work closely with professional advisors from Ottawa and Ontario such as the NCC, OMNR (Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources), Ecclesiax, Umbra and the Paralympics Committee, to create hands-on concepts to solve physical problems.

I was overall very impressed with the quality of the projects, presentations and thinking. Just 6 years out of the program myself, I can see there has already been a huge leap forward in understanding of analytical thinking and visual communication compared to my school experience.

In addition, integration with industry and real-life problem solving application was very impressive. The group of fire-fighting equipment designs, for example, worked closely with the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources Aviation and Forest Fire Management (OMNR AFFM) division. Later this summer some of the selected designs will actually be prototyped and tested in Northern Ontario in real fire fighting scenarios!

To be back in Ottawa and "back at school" really put things in perspective for me. School projects, final models and the anticipation of graduation seems so far away but yet relatively recent in my memory. While difficult, emotional and stressful at the time, I can now see how truely beneficial all the bumps and burns along the way were to my current outlook as a designer and how my past experiences have formed present "design self".

Thanks again to the School of Industrial Design, Carleton University Alumni Association and a special thanks to my professors and mentors.

For more information on the school and the exhibition check out http://www.id.carleton.ca/exhibition

R

hummel Character, DNA

The concept of character is very important in all hummel products. Character since 1923 is now the company tagline (our "Just Do It"), and this concept evolved and was first developed in footwear.

I first created the "Jeg har Karakter" concept ("I have Character", in Danish) for my first new football collection with hummel, the 2006 Collection. (see post here about the concept and design brief in the 6.2 Concept FG Case Study).

Click the Read More link below for the full story of the development of hummel Footwear Character, product DNA.



As the time, the idea was to frame the collection and provide a matrix concept and reasoning for the all new models to be designed as well as a marketing strategy.

The first step, was looking at the football market and competitors. I felt it was important to attach a concept and theme to hummel football footwear products that hummel could "own". Seeing as how Adidas represented (for the most part) heritage (even though the hummel brand is older), Nike represented Technology, and Puma represented Lifestyle.

As well, given the nature of our small brand compared to the Big 3, and lack of high profile players and teams under sponsorship, combined with our strategy of "non-marketing" and alternative sponsorship (ie. The Tibet National Team) a different competitve strategy was needed.

The "Jeg har Karakter" concept embraced these issues. Character was something unique that hummel could bring (a alternative approach to different aspects of performance, lifestyle, and design) to the market and targeted and celebrated the individual player not the $100 Million dollar athlete.

The idea was solidified with the definition of 3 different Character types that defined the product mix.



The 4 Series Character is traditional, professional, respectful of the heritage of the game.



The 6 Series Character is the "Rock Star", technical, but unique in personality, not afraid to be different, and connected to fashion.



The 8 Series Character is highly refined, technical, focused on performance and efficiency in skill and control.

Most importantly, the Character concept was broad enough yet specific to provide an open umbrella for a multi-target product approach and fit well with the storytelling approach to marketing hummel has championed for a long time.

Text I wrote from the first Football 2006 Catalog-

Imagine life without stories. Events only existing in the present. No recollection of our history, or dreams for the future. From generation to generation we have passed down stories since man has existed in tribes. These tribes/groups are defined by the stories they tell.

Imagine stories without characters. Tales only of inanimate places, things, stuff. It is in fact the characters of our stories, and by our own character in life that we define ourselves within the groups and teams we live and play. We are all characters. We are all individuals. Characters are integral to creating excitement.

In developing the hummel Football 2006 Collection, we have considered the individual characteristics of the characters present in any team. Exploring each product as a character we have combined technology, design and style to engineer a cast of unique personalities.

We are all Characters. We all have Character.

Jeg har Karakter.

EVen before this character concept, one of the very first (I think I created it for a presentation about my new footwear direction given 2 weeks after I started in June 2004) and most important things I established at hummel, was the footwear DNA concept.

This DNA concept describes the relationship of different products and different product categories as related with similar characteristics in design and concept.

This DNA was developed to bring all footwear products closer and define a strong brand identity.

Visually, you can see these in various details and patterns that are used across product categories including the rear mudgaurd pattern, rounded punched eyelets with embroidery (which has a shape similar to the shape of the "L" in hummel, rear heel window patterns.







This DNA concept has been in uses on all collections since the establishment of the new footwear dept. at hummel and is evident in the design of the new 8.4 PIO FGX.



This DNA concept has also been applied bringing the PIO (Per Invitation Only Concept) to sport. The 8.4 PIO FGX was the first technical teamsports product in hummel to be under the PIO label, and has now set the direction for the PIO label to be applied to all products across categories in both footwear and apparel.



Taking the root idea of PIO, exclusivity, luxury, uniqueness, lifestyle and storytelling, the 8.4 PIO FGX brings these elements to our top technical boot (remember 8 Series products are focused for the technical player). In this way, the 8.4 PIO FGX adopts some characteristics of the 6 series (Rock Star player), and links with the DNA established in other footwear categories.

Likewise the 4.2 PIO FGC in camo Pittards WR100X Analine leather adopts some feel of the 6 Series (Rock Star) and 8 Series (Technical) with a unique, high performance military spec material treatment.

hummel Technologies design

As mentioned in the 8.4 PIO FGX Unboxing post, I have been involved in more than just "footwear design" here at hummel. A large part of my work is the strategic design and creative direction of the hummel Footwear brand.

One of the very first things I did after starting at hummel 2.5 years ago was to build up a portfolio and create a brand package for technology and performance features that are used in our footwear.

Click the Read More link below for more information.



The purpose of this technology portfolio was to further communicate the unique performance aspects of our shoes and create a better understanding of performance and value in the mind of our customers.




The above Technology Matrix I designed to visually communicate the idea that different parts of the shoe (ie. upper, outsole, etc.) use and feature different type of technologies (ie. cushioning, breathability, etc.) Each technology is therefore tuned and focused depending on the location and application of the part/implementation.

Together with this matrix, I created a series of names and logos to be identified with each product benefit. We went through lots of different ideas for names, some really terrible (ie. matress for cushioning) and others just strange (ie. TSS, Thorax Support System, based on words from a bee's body, for support).



As well, the graphic icons went through several rounds of design iterations. Here's some early explorations.







The final logos and technology micro-brands are now used across all our technical footwear product, and some technical apparel as well. Every performance shoe includes a hangtag with the tech logos and matrix and tech logos are also incorporated into the product design of the footwear.









A small point that some may not notice, but something that help make the product and the details stand out for a consumer.

8.4 PIO FGX is here!

Finally! After more than 1 year in development and production the first 8.4 PIO FGX production shoes arrived today at the office direct from our warehouse (via the factory in China, of course).

The 8.4 PIO FGX has, since the project inception, been my "baby" and incorporates the culmination of several years of work in rebranding the hummel footwear product.

From the design of new box, new sockliner technology, new graphics, new hangtags, new outsole, new upper, new materials and more, I have been involved in every aspect of the 8.4 (in addition to all the other products.

Coming tomorrow and later this week, The Unboxing, and more on the thinking, and details that went into the final 8.4 PIO FGX product.

R

Copenhagen!

One of the best things about going down to Copenhagen recently was CPH Vision was....Copenhagen! In my opinion, THE top city for its combination of European flavor, medium size, and great design and fashion, everywhere.

Click the Read More line below for more pics of KBH.

CPH Vision > trends and directions

I probably spent more time looking at people than at the clothes, but did notice a few trends to speak of.

Certainly, as mentioned earlier and seen as well at ISPO, the 80's and early 90's colors and patterns are moving things in sportswear in one direction. A mix between urban camo, and 80s skiing, prints like this hot pink, blue, green are (unfortunately in my opinion) coming back.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and trend info.





And then there's the leggings...

In other direction, the all over graphic print is still here, but moving into other areas of apparel crossing from more streetwear hoodies and T-s to dresses and bags.







Taking over the graphic direction however, I believe is a more craft based application of graphics coming from knit and traditional print patterns.











In more upmarket fashion, minimal with construction details seems to still be the direction, especially among Scandinavian brands, with more and more refinement in details and cuts. Pants are moving to higher waisted, wider leg (in the same direction as jeans), and fur is up again.

Colorwise....... purple!

Styledepartment.com Interiew

UPDATE-

Styledepartment.com interview with me about hummel and First Pullover is now up.

here

as well, translated German version is available here

Munich

I didn't have too much time to explore and shop around Munich while I was there for ISPO, and it was my first time in the city, so I am sure missed a lot of hotspots...

...in any case, check out some pics from my trip below. Not particularily trend/footwear oriented, a little feel of my trip nonetheless.

Click the Read More link below for more pics.

Volvo SportsDesign Forum/Award

On Sat., Feb. 3 I attended the Volvo SportsDesign Forum

The theme of the forum was Personal Design, and a wide range of design and business professionals spoke and led workshops. The interesting discussion topics ranged from customization and brand identity to business aspects and applications of personalization and micro-markets.

Speakers included -

Stefano Natoli, Head of NIKEiD EMEA
Andrej Kupetz, managing director and technical manager of the German Design Council
Stefan Jansson, Designer of the new Volvo C30
Steve Wozniak, co-founder of Apple Computers and designer of the Apple I and II

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.




For a full list of presenters and workshops, be sure to check out Volvo SportsDesign Forum

In addition, as mentioned earlier, the hummel 8.4 PIO FGX was nominated for a design award in the footwear category. Along with the other nominees, the 8.4 PIO FGX was on display in main foyer of the forum, and later on the fair floor at ISPO for the thousands of sportswear industry professionals to view.

Unfortunately, hummel didn't take home the top spot in the Volvo SportsDesign Award, but it is a huge honor to be nominated in a category along with Nike and Adidas! Congratulations to Nike+ for the win.

8.4 FGX first pullover samples

I'm still working on a more complete post with detailed notes about the development of the 8.4 FGX, but in the meantime, I came across some early pullover pics I would like to share.

The initial idea for the 8.4 FGX was a lightweight, breathable mesh football boot, inspired by our indoor shoe, the 9.3.

Click the Read more link below for more pics of the initial concept and pullover.



As development progressed in consultation with sales, testing and marketing, the concept evolved into the current 8.4 FGX, for a number of reasons, including the commonly wet weather and low demand for mesh football boots in our main markets of northern Europe and Scandinavia.

Below, you can clearly see the pattern inspiration and material influence in these first samples of the 8.4, taken directly from the 9.3 indoor shoe with a nylon screen mesh over top an airmesh quarter with hot melt TPU details.

Footwear Rendering

Following my recent Photoshop rendering tutorial I've got a lot of great responses and questions. One of which I thought I would address here.




Q. "How do you render a white or light color shoe without it looking dirty?"

A. It all depends on the consitency of your shading and highlights. You can also play with the overal lighting and general mood to help your rendering pop out.

I threw together the above rendering as an example. As you can see, the 8.4 PIO FGX is a white pearl color, not 100% bright white, but the same would still hold true. Shading is done in a warmer tone (not black) to give a more natural feel, and the darker background and reflective floor help me get away with a darker upper shading without looking too strange.

Hope this helps!

R

The rendering does look white, but you do get the impression you are looking at a light colored shoe, i hope.

8.4 PIO FGX nominated for Volvo SportsDesign Award at ISPO 2007

The 8.4 PIO FGX has just been nominated for a Volvo SportsDesign Award to be presented at ISPO 2007, February 3 in Munich.

The competition honors the best products focused on the theme "Personal Design".

Check out the competition here Volvo SportsDesign AWARD

hummel Old School SS07 part 5 > specification and colors

Concurrently with the pattern development, colorway options and material specification is worked out.

To develop narrow down the colorway and final spec, first, a wide range of color options are quickly explored. Using the outline drawings of the style in illustrator, a number of different directions can be discussed and looked at.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.

Normally, the footwear designer will first create many options, then later reduce the options and further develop the stronger ideas, to present to Sales and Marketing for consultation and final selection.

Once the colorways for each style have been explored, and an overall line plan direction identified (at hummel, because we have such small collections, with few styles, I try to create a strong collection theme or plan in colors/materials), material and color specification is determined.




This process involves picking the Pantone colors for each part and the corresponding material. At this stage, for simple shoes like these, an jpeg file is created from Illustrator with material callouts for the factory to follow.

Interview and 8.4 PIO FGX review on Foot-Boots.com

Ive just finished an exclusive interview with Alan from Footy-Boots.com that is now posted. The interview discusses some of the thoughts behind the new football boots and the design and development process at hummel.

Link to Interview

Footy-Boots.com also has a nice review of the 8.4 PIO FGX as well.

8.4 PIO FGX review


www.footy-boots.com

8.4 PIO FGX featured on BusinessWeek/Innovation&Design

The 8.4 PIO FGX was featured today on 3 great design/innovation websites! Check out the links.

BusinessWeek Innovation&Design (Design Snapshots halfway down the page)
Core77 Studio Bullits
Core77

Indoor 2007 catalog photoshoot

As mentioned, the latest Indoor 2007 catalog will also feature a lot of design/development process work. Sketches, photos of sample, factory production, etc.

To capture the development process from the design studio perspective, another photosession session was set up, moving more than 10 boxes of papers, samples, binders and bits from our real office to a photo studio. Due to the tight space and lighting, it was impossible to capture our actual studio environment.

Click the Read More link below for more pics of the photosession and "design studio" pics.





As you can see (and I'll maybe post pics of our real studio sometime soon if possible), the studio shots capture all elements of the design process.

Quite a bit less messy than my real desk, perhaps, the studio environment is, indeed, one filled with a variety of materials, inspiration, binders, samples and bits of shoes.