Footwear Terminology

A to Z of footwear technical terms, construction methods, part names, and more.


Buff
To remove material by a sanding or roughing process. For example, EVA midsoles are buffed before assembly to help break the smooth surface for better adhesion to the upper.

Cement/Board Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (carboard or texon) is inserted onto the last bottom and the lasting margin (excess) material of the upper is lasted onto the board and cemented to the insole board. Shoes of this type are usually more stiff and heavier.

Chemi-Sheet
A nonwoven reinforcement material that is impregnated with a chemical hardener that sets with application of heat or another chemical. Used commonly for counter or toebox reinforcement.

CM EVA
Compression Molded EVA. A foamed midsole material that offers good cushioning and compression set.

Collar
The opening area of a shoe at the top.

Colorway
A color/material combination.

Cosmo
An type of non-woven upper lining and reinforcement material used commonly on cross training and hiking boots that provides a stiffer (compared to Tricot) lining and support for the shoe.



Coutner
The back/heel of the shoe.

Eyelet
A hole through which you lace up a shoe.

Eyestay
The part around the lace opening (throat of the shoe). Can feature webbings, eyelets, etc.

FG
Firm Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on hard, natural surface.

Insole Board
The bottom part of the lasted upper.

Last
Anatomical representation of the foot for constructing a shoe

Lasting
The process of stretching the preassembled upper around the last, by machine or by hand.

Lasting margin
The upper material part that when lasted folds over the edge of the last onto the bottom, overlapping the insole board.

Midsole
The component of a shoe between the upper and outsole used to provide cushioning, fit, comfort and support.

Outsole
The bottom component of a shoe that provides grip and traction.

Overlay
An upper part which is over another part.

Padding
Refers to foam or other material usually inside the collar or tongue to add thickness/cushioning and improve fit.

PU (upper material)
PU upper materials usually use a thin layer of PU foam with a non-woven or fabric backing for reinforcement and strength.

PU
PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material with minute bubbles or cells and a skin like surface. Used for upper materials, and in a different form for midsoles or padding foam.

Pullover
A prototype sample for checking pattern and fit.

Quarter
The side of the shoe. Can have many subcomponents and parts.

SG
Soft Ground. Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for use on soft (wet) natural surfaces.

SKU
Stock Keeping Unit. A unique model/style/colorway/size. Commonly used to refer to a unique colorway. Ie, if there are 2 models each with 5 colorways, there are 10 SKUs total.

Slip Lasting
A lasting process where the insole board (usually canvas) is stitched around the last bottom edge to complete the upper. Usually used for more lightweight, flexible shoes such as running shoes.

SMU
Special Make Up. A special request by a customer (ie. distributor, retailer, etc.). It is normally just a different colorway of an existing shoe, but in some cases can also be a whole new shoe. There is not much more to it, really, just that it is requested directly. In some cases it may be part of a special marketing campaign (ie. one of those "exclusives" for Foot Locker you see), or might just be a product to better serve a particular niche covered by the market demographics, location, etc. (ie. maybe some country/market sells more brown colored shoes, but there are none in the main collection).

Stitch and Turn (seam)
A seam which is stitched to join two parts then flipped inside out so the stitch is hidden.

Toe Cap
Upper part on the toe, usually and overlay.

Tongue
Part which covers the top of the foot. Usually a separate component stitched inside the shoe at the bottom of the throat.

TPU
Thermoplastic PolyUrethane. Synthetic (plastic) material usually used for molded details and components on a shoe such as a molded eyestay, logo, counter reinforcement or waist stabilizer.

Tricot (a brand name, used to refer to a material, also Cambrelle)
Upper lining material, usually used on running shoes that is made from a sandwich of mesh type fabric, that allows a lightweight, breathable construction.

Turf
Refers to football/soccer boots/outsoles designed for very hard/round natural surfaces like dirt or turf and also synthetic grass surfaces.

Underlay
A part of a shoe upper that is under another part.

Upper
The part of a shoe created around the last.

Vamp
Area of the shoe/last on the front/top.

8.4 PIO FGX is here!

Finally! After more than 1 year in development and production the first 8.4 PIO FGX production shoes arrived today at the office direct from our warehouse (via the factory in China, of course).

The 8.4 PIO FGX has, since the project inception, been my "baby" and incorporates the culmination of several years of work in rebranding the hummel footwear product.

From the design of new box, new sockliner technology, new graphics, new hangtags, new outsole, new upper, new materials and more, I have been involved in every aspect of the 8.4 (in addition to all the other products.

Coming tomorrow and later this week, The Unboxing, and more on the thinking, and details that went into the final 8.4 PIO FGX product.

R

hummel Old School SS07 part 5 > specification and colors

Concurrently with the pattern development, colorway options and material specification is worked out.

To develop narrow down the colorway and final spec, first, a wide range of color options are quickly explored. Using the outline drawings of the style in illustrator, a number of different directions can be discussed and looked at.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.

Normally, the footwear designer will first create many options, then later reduce the options and further develop the stronger ideas, to present to Sales and Marketing for consultation and final selection.

Once the colorways for each style have been explored, and an overall line plan direction identified (at hummel, because we have such small collections, with few styles, I try to create a strong collection theme or plan in colors/materials), material and color specification is determined.




This process involves picking the Pantone colors for each part and the corresponding material. At this stage, for simple shoes like these, an jpeg file is created from Illustrator with material callouts for the factory to follow.

Indoor 2007 catalog photoshoot

As mentioned, the latest Indoor 2007 catalog will also feature a lot of design/development process work. Sketches, photos of sample, factory production, etc.

To capture the development process from the design studio perspective, another photosession session was set up, moving more than 10 boxes of papers, samples, binders and bits from our real office to a photo studio. Due to the tight space and lighting, it was impossible to capture our actual studio environment.

Click the Read More link below for more pics of the photosession and "design studio" pics.





As you can see (and I'll maybe post pics of our real studio sometime soon if possible), the studio shots capture all elements of the design process.

Quite a bit less messy than my real desk, perhaps, the studio environment is, indeed, one filled with a variety of materials, inspiration, binders, samples and bits of shoes.

hummel 8.4 PIO FGX

coming soon!

As identified earlier by keen blog readers, our most exclusive and exciting hummel football will soon be launched to the public. The 8.4 PIO FGX.

The 8.4 PIO FGX is a limited edition version of our latest boot, the 8.4 Concept FGX.

Click the Read More link below for lots more pics and information.


As introduced in recent limited lifestyle footwear collections (see FW06 Per Invitation Only), the Per Invitation Only concept is one of luxury, exclusivity and a mix of performance and lifestyle.



The 8.4 PIO FGX is actually inspired by one of our most successful lifestyle PIO product, the Jacobsen. Featuring a laser-etched monogram bee/chevron design on the entire upper, the unique treatment adds distinctive on-field character to a top performance boot.







The 8.4 PIO FGX features all the same technical features as the 8.4 Concept FGX as follows,

- NEW Wide-fit anatomical last for maximum control and comfort
- Asymmetric design for anatomical fit and increased strike zone
- Dynamic, integral customized lock-fit lacing system for adjustable fit
- Glass fiber heel inserts for lightweight support
- hmlFIT Customized Fit Technology heat moldable sockliner for personal fit and ultimate performance
- NEW FGX firm ground combination stud traction outsole with DYNAsymm chassis and hGRIP pivot point studs
- PE molded internal midsole
-TR molded internal heel counter
- Extra CM EVA technical sockliner included
- 304g
- Size 6-11 UK

plus




- 100% upper Pittards WR Premiership Goat Skin Leather construction
- Unqiue Laser-etched Monogram Bee upper pattern design
- Leather Bee keychain included
- limited 2007 edition to 2000 pairs worldwide






You can read more about the new FGX outsole in the previous post, hummel football 2007 NEW FGX outsole preview.











As mentioned in an earlier post, the key technical feature (among many) of this boot is the hmlFIT Customized Fit Technology heat moldable sockliner.

"Looking for the Perfect Fit? Using a revolutionary new smart-foam material, this sockliner system can be custom molded to your foot using heat for ultimate comfort and performance...."




Check the post hmlFIT customized fit technology for more info.




Coming soon, design and development of the 8.4 Concept/PIO FGX

hummel Old School SS07 part 4 > development, cont'd

Depending on the project, normally more than one pullover sample is made to correct and determine the pattern. A complicated, technical shoe may take up to 5 rounds of samples to get right.

For the development of the SS07 Stadil, we went through 2 rounds of pullover samples, adjusting mostly small details and further refining the design on the second round.

Click the Read More link below to see the second round samples and corrections.

Click on the images above and below for a larger photo to read correction points.

hummel Old School SS07 part 3 > development

Once the design had been transferred to a half gauge pattern by the pattern-maker in Asia, a first pullover sample was made to review.

In reviewing this pullover, several changes and adjustments were made to the pattern in order to try to keep the look as close as possible to the original, and the overall look in keeping with the retro style.

Given that there are really no "rules" for most of these points and the final result is somewhat subjective, it is down to the experience and skill of the designer/developer to correct the pullover and make improvements.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.


As you can see, even a relatively basic style such as this requires a lot of adjustment and modification. Small changes like collar height, throat width and toecap shape all make the difference between a nice looking shoe and a bad looking shoe.

Click on the images above and below for a larger photo to read correction points.

hummel Old School SS07 part 2 > design

Taking inspiration from photos of the original style, line artwork was created to develop the pattern of the new product.

While following the original as closely as possible, some changes were made to update the style. These included adding a woven label on the tongue with English and Danish text (based on the tongue logo of another vintage style), changing the chevron pattern was update to reflect our current logo standards and dimensions, and using a newer vulcanized outsole instead of the original handball rubber cupsole.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.



The name was also revised to be "Stadil", based on Christian Stadil Hansen, national team keeper and relative of hummel Creative Director Christian Stadil. Christian Stadil Hansen still ranks in the top 20 of All Time greatest handball players with 146 Denmark National Team Games. Giving more personality and history to the shoe, this new name reflects our company philosophy of "Charater Since 1923".

hummel Old School SS07 part 1 > vintage inspiration

New for SS07 (coming Jan/Feb 2007) are several styles inspired by actual vintage
products. Unfortunately, almost no samples were kept from our rich 83 year history, and little more than back catalogs from the 1980s and few earlier photos remain in our archive.

To bring back from our past key styles, equal parts of creativity and development were needed to recreate designs only using grainy catalog photos.

Clck the Read More link below for more info and pics.


One such style inspired by hummel handball history is the 'Stadil'.

Inspired by an original 1980's style called "Handball Ten" (also shown in some catalogs as the "Zurich"), the Stadil authentically recreates pattern and design language of he original model and adds new retro inspired details and contemporary appeal.

8.4 Concept FGX

As promised, heres the other new colorway to be released Jan/Feb 2007.

Black/White/Gold

More pics after the Read More link below.

hummel football 2007 NEW 8.4 Concept FGX preview

First pics here of the NEW 2007 8.4 Concept FGX!

As mentioned, this new boot features our hmlFIT Customized Fit Technology which is a heat moldable sockliner. I believe, that this boot developed from the inside out, may be one of the best fitting and most comfortable boots on the market.

Click the Read More link below for additional pics and specs.




In addtion, specs include-

-NEW Wide-fit anatomical last for maximum control and comfort
-Pittards WR Premiership Goat Skin Leather upper
-Asymmetric design for anatomical fit and increased strike zone
-Dynamic, integral customized lock-fit lacing system for adjustable fit
-Glass fiber heel inserts for lightweight support
-hmlFIT Customized Fit Technology heat moldable sockliner for personal fit and ultimate performance
-NEW FGX firm ground combination stud traction outsole with DYNAsymm chassis and hGRIP pivot point studs
-PE molded internal midsole
-TR molded internal heel counter
-Extra CM EVA technical sockliner included








Released 2007. More info on additional colorways and takedowns to come.

hummel football 2007 NEW preview > 4.2 Concept FGX/SG

New for 2007, the hummel 4.2 Concept FGC/SG features an exciting new material > Pittards WR100X Analine Goat Skin.

The military use this leather for the very thin, but high performance gloves worn by the Special Forces who jump out of helicopters and slide down ropes to action. In these high wear circumstances, gloves are required that will give good water and sweat resistance, but also excellent touch and softness feeling like a second skin. It is also very important that these special gloves prevent rope burn and wear.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and info.





In our new football boots, these combination of unique features (softness, touch, weather and sweat resistance and high abrasion resistance (20% more than K-leather), make it the perfect material for premium control and performance.This uniquely finished natural aniline offers up to 5 times higher breathability than standard Kangaroo Leather with no sacrifice in water or sweat resistance.

In addition, as it is a very lightweight leather with a unique fibre structure, the resulting boot is 22% lighter than the copa and comparable classic leather boots.

Unlike reguar-finish leathers, this Analine leather needs no "break-in" period. It is super soft fresh from the box, and will only improve and mold to your feet with wear. As well, because of the Analine finish, the surface of the leather has a more dull, natural similar to some baseball batting gloves or driving gloves.





The 4.2 Concept features a classic round FGC outsole, or soft ground SG outsole, and a great mix of classic style with modern technical advantages included a glass reinforced heel counter, and asymmetrical design.

Dk. Grey/White/Gold

To be released Jan 2007

sneak peak, hummel football 2007 collection

OK all,

Here's the exclusive first news of the hummel 2007 Football collection, to be released Jan 2007.

The 2007 collection (as was 2006) is focused on 3 top models, for different kinds of players. Rather than based only on position, or features (ie. lightweight, etc.) it is based on personality and "Character", and all offer a wide variety of exciting technical and performance features. More on these characters to come (or feel free to dig up some of the posts I made last year about the concept).

The 3 (top) models are...

(More info after the Read More Link below)

R

4.2 Concept FG/SG
For 2007 this boot features a new type of military-spec Goat Skin Leather which makes the boot 22% lighter than the Copa, and 5 times more breathable. Ultimate natural touch and softness, and feel.

6.2 Concept FG
Fully synthetic boot as per 2006 with new colorway for 2007.

8.4 Concept FGX
This boot is 100% new (new last, design, outsole) and our biggest story.
Inspired, in part, by all those SP posts about trying to get the "perfect fit" with using all kinds of crazy methods (showers?!), and in part by the personalized service we offer professionals, this boot features a true user customized fit.

Using a special sockliner technology that can be custom molded to fit your foot using heat, and a new wide last, this boot is perhaps the best fitting, most comfortable boot on the market.

Additional features include super soft and abrasion resistant Goat Skin Leather, glass fibre reinforced heel coutner, fully customizable lacing system and an all new hybrid traction/classic stud outsole.


Additionally, based on the success of last year's limited edition (6.2 Concept FG Pony, 1923 pairs worldwide), there will be two new ultimate special edition boots.

Stay tuned for more info and pics coming up!

Cheers,

hummel Indoor 2006

Ok all,

Coming soon (july/august) to retail, here's the first look at the latest hummel indoor collection. These shoes were specifically developed for european handball, and designed and tested in consultation with some of the best players and teams in the sport.

More pics after the Read More link below. Technical info coming soon.

from the crates II

More good stuff that never saw the light of day.

more pics after the Read More link below.

from the crates

In the long and difficult process of footwear development, there are always things that "dont make it", For one reason or another, styles or colorways are often cancelled throughtout the process, or before production.

In this feature, From the Crates, (which will I will be trying to make a regular thing), I will be posting some pics of cancelled styles and colorways. Sometimes its pretty obvious why they are cancelled (ugly as sin), and sometimes it's more a matter of managings SKUs, costs or production issues. Some of my favorite styles/colors eveer developed have ended up among these cancelled collectibles, never to be seen again.

First up....some alternate colorways of the Jacobsen style included in the Per Invitation Only FW06 collection that were cancelled, including some ladies colors that are among some of my favorites, but as for now, will never see the light of day.

Enjoy!

R

PS. If there's anything you see here and love, drop me an email. It has been known to happen before that styles "come back from the dead" by popular demand!...


Click the Read More link below for more pics.

6.2 Concept FG case study part 8 > final samples

After more than 6 months in development and numberous revision to pattern, color, and technical construction the first final samples of the 6.2 Concept FG are complete.

Click the Read More link below for more detail pics and an overview of the technical features.


Jeg har Karakter (I have Character in Danish). This inscription under the flip over tongue embodies the concept of the entire 2006 hummel Football Footwear Collection. Focused on developing unique, individual products that capture the essence of the unique individual player types on any team, the collection, and 6.2 Concept FG relates directly to the personality and character of those players.

The 6.2 player is above all an individual, confident, and looking for excellence to express his/her personality. Unlike everybody else. The 6.2 Concept FG is the boot for that player.



The 6.2 Concept FG features-

Supple, soft engineered SuperMicrofibre upper

hmlFIT dynamic lacing system for support and control

Lightweight Microfibre full lining construction

Pig Skin leather collar lining for comfort and luxury

Natural Pig Skin leather sockliner

CM EVA molded performance removable sockliner

Injection molded nylon internal midsole

hGRIP firm ground (FG) traction outsole



Limited Edition Colorway Black/White/Pony. Exclusive production limited to 1923 pairs worldwide. (The hummel brand was established in the year 1923. More info to come soon on this special release!



















More pics and info coming soon.

indoor 7.1 outsole development > revised model

Once the corrections to the first model and technical drawing have been made, the mold maker in asia makes a revised tech drawing and model for my review.

Click the Read More link below for more pics and final correction to the 7.1 outsole model before the sample mold is made.





Overall, the second model much better represents the final outsole design. The width and proportion of the outsole bottom has been changed to be more slim at the waist, and in the heel area, while maximizing surface contact area for grip. you can see the difference in shape compared to the first model below.





The second model corrected some of the assembly issues as previously mentioned with the stabilizer and outsole, but as shown here there was still a misunderstanding about the shape and assembly of the TPU stabilizer. The TPU stabilizer was intended to be a flat part assembled between the bottom midsole and outsole rubber. Similar to how it was created in the first model, but without the pegs. In communication with mold makers and technical people in asia, whose first language is not english, sometimes these things happen...



Here hou can clearly see the 3Di cushioning system. This cushioning system is designed to allow displacement or material into the holes from the top and bottom midsole to allow for good comfort and shock absorption. Unlike an air bag or other insert that uses a pressurized gas or liquid, this system cannot pop or leak under the extreme pressure of court performance of some very big players.



On the forefoot lateral side, there is an outrigger feature built into the rubber outsole. This outrigger helps give a physical feedback to the player who can then better control their movement in fast side-to-side lateral position changes. The effect actually is more psychological and cognitive than physical (its not big enough to stop you from rolling over), but works like a cat's whiskers help a cat to be aware of their location.



Corrected modified herringbone tread pattern for good grip on a court surface.



The waist features an airflow system created by the physical construction of the two CM EVA midsole parts. working through holes in the top midsole and a channel between the two parts, in combination with a special upper construction, the shoe is better allowed to breathe for better performance and comfort.

6.2 Concept FG case study part 7 > second colorway sample

back to the case study.

After the first colorway sample, most of the major technical and construction issues have been taken care of, and the review gets down to the details, colors, materials, logos, etc.





You can see in this pic, two of the changes that were made during the first colorway sample review - brouging added to the toecap, and embroidered hummel logo detail.



Here the tongue is shortened during this process to create a more streamlines shape and better present the embroidered hummel logo that goes across the shoe.



Here you can see the revised lacing system as discussed in the last sample phase.







Under the tongue "Jeg har Karakter" artwork print is added, to build on the Danish Charater concept and add unique value.

indoor 7.1 outsole development > technical drawing and model

After I send the initial technical drawing to asia, the mold maker begins the process of converting my artwork to useable technical dimensions and a creates a 2D technical drawing for my review.

Because my initial technical drawing is not a true 3D CAD file (only done in ilustrator), there are sometimes dimensions or features that cannot be realized in production or are open to interpretation. By making and checking a 2D drawing from the mold maker, all features and dimensions can be confirmed.

Click Read More for more pics and description of the process.






Once the 2D drawing is checked and confirmed (usually several rounds of small modifications are required), the mold maker creates a 3D "wooden" model. This model is made from a Renshape-type material (a type of very dense, synthetic wood with no grain structure). This model is made by CNC (computer controlled) milling machine, then finished and painted by hand to help give an idea of the look and features of the outsole.

This model (along with another 2D drawing) can then be checked, and features modified if requried to correct dimensions, features and review potential molding issues.



For example in this model, if you look at the yellow waist stabilizer part, you will see many small pegs that fit into the outsole. This was interpreted incorrectly from the drawing and would be almost impossible to make in production. Instead, the stabilizer was supposed to be flat, showing through the holes in the outsole.



As well, you can see in this model, that the tread pattern was misinterpreted as well. Essentially in reverse, the tread was made as recesses rather than raised feautres.





Stay tuned for pics of the revised model and corrections..