The next step in production is cutting and preparation.

In this stage, the selected materials are taken from the material warehouse, and brought to the cutting room or area. Cutting dies are used, which are metal cookies cutter like dies, used with a large stamping machine that puts puses down the die onto the material.

More info and pics after the Ream More link below




See cutting machine pics above. Depending on the material, these cutting dies and machines can cut through more than layer of material at a time. For materials like collar lining foams, reinforcements, and synthetics, they typically cut 3-5 layers of material at once. For leathers, because they stretch and the materials is very costly if wasted, the operators cut one layer at a time. The boards on the cutting machines are layered in a thick wax block, to keep the dies sharp and ensure good, clean cuts every time.



As mentioned earlier, care is taken throught the cutting process to minimize waste and nest the part layout to maximize material use. In some cases, this layout of how the cut parts should be taken from a piece of material, is planned by a special computer program. Different materials also have different concerns and waste in cutting. For example, because of the nature of the skin and animal, Goat Skin Leather has a much lower loss rate than Kangaroo leather (and the raw skin is also bigger). This not only affects the cost of a material on a boot, but also effects the result of final product.





During cutting, especially of leather, becuase the natural material may vary in grain texture and color, small stickers are put on the cut parts, to ensure that the part for the left and right shoe in one pair come from the same material for best consistency.



After cuttting, parts may be screen printed with stitching guidelines as shown above with special inks that will disappear or be only visible in UV light, to help stitching workers follow the necessary stitching lines on a pattern. This is especially important for decoration stitching that must be in certain pattern like the vamp stitching on the vamp of the 4.2 Concept as shown above.





It is also during this step, that the edges of materials (both leather and synthetic) are made thinner to have a better looking seams and avoid unsightly bulges. This process is called skiving. This is done as shown above with a special machine that will cut the thickness of the leather down using a special spining blade. Skiving may typically reduce leather material thickness from something like 1.2mm to 0.5mm





Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

In any shoe, the upper materials are one of the most important (and expensive) components. For football boots, the upper materials are even more important as good materials can make the difference between good and bad touch, comfort, performance, and fit.

More pics and info after the Read More link below.





The new hummel 2006 football boots use a variety of natural and man made materials for ultimate performance and quality. One of the key materials, as used in the 4.2 Concept and 8.2 Concept is Pittards WR Premiership Goat Skin leather.

Since last year, hummel and Pittards have been working very closely together to develop this new, exciting material. As the first brand worldwide to use this material in football, much of the development and specifics of the product was created and tested to specifications set by hummel and Pittards together.



High abrasion resistance
Resists wear and tear

Permanent water resistance
Ensures lightweight comfort in wet conditions

Enhanced Grip
Water resistance enhances grip and touch in all conditions

Optimum softness
Engineered leather remains naturally soft to the touch in use

Excellent sweat resistance
Prevents material breakdown keeping leather soft and supple

Unique breathability
Maximum breathability ensures comfort and performance



Compared to Kangaroo and Bovine (cow) leather, Goat Skin has a unique fiber structure that gives it natural superior abrasion resistance and breathability.

This natural abrasion resistance is further enhanced by a special combination of high performance polymers, silicones and waxes, Pittards eNamelFlex. Applied by process technology this treatment ensures high strength, flex and abrasion properties.



Pittards WR Premiership also uses a special weather reistant application; WR100X. The WR100X tanning process has been specially engineered to offer improved water resistance properties, which keep your hummel footwear protected at all times. Although water uptake is limited, WR100X leather is still breathable and will allow perspiration and air to pass through the fiber structure, keeping the foot cool and comfortable.

Ordinary leathers take over 24 hours to dry and are usually hard and prone to cracking. WR100 leather dries in around 6 hours, and is as soft and supple as on the first wearing.



Before production, the factory will calculate the required material consumption of each part, including "loss" (the small bits left over when the needed shapes are cut out). This requirement is then used byt the factory to order production materials based on production orders placed to the factory.

For one style, a number of different materials and suppliers will need to be used. Leather, mesh, laces, lining, foams, reinforcements, etc, each in the required color and quanitity are purchased individually by a material purchasing department.

Once the materials arrive at factory, they are kept in a material warehouse, tagged for each order, and inspected.

In the case of upper leathers, such as Pittards WR Premiership, which are by the far the most expensive part of a football boot (more than 50% of the total cost of the boot), each individual skin is checked and any faults identified (all natural materials will have some faults), colors inspected (as any natural material may vary slightly), and approved for use.

The raw leather is then layed out and marked by hand for the next step, cutting. In the pics above, you can see the pattern for the vamp area of the 4.2 Concept pattern parts are layed out to maximize material use for the 4.2 Concept FGC.



Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

The hummel 2006 football collection has arrived! The newest hummel boots have just arrived in stock. Here's a complete visual overview of the boots.

For more pics follow the Read More link below.

As I mention, things have been busy!

Last week at the hummel head office here in Aarhus, Denmark was presentation and fashion for our salespeople and internal staff. Presenting the freshest Fashion and Sport Fashion textile collections, as well as the latest (FW06) liseftyle footwear, the event and show was amazing. just another perk of working at a sportslifestyle company!

Lots of pics after the Read More link below, and more info on the latest collections coming soon!

























More pics coming in another post (im splitting to make downloading a little quicker).

R

In this series, I will be reviewing and presenting pics and information about the production process of a football boot. Following the complete production process, from material preparation to final packing.

More info and pics after the Read More link below.



Following the design and development of the new hummel 2006 football boots, including the 4.2 Concept FGC above, the next part of the product lifecycle is production.

For me, this is always the most interesting and satisfying part. After working hard on development for perhaps 8 months, solving problems, changing materials, modifying patterns, fixing technical features and more, once in production the football boots can live on their own.



In addition, I will always find seeing an entire factory, perhaps 2000 workers from stitching to lasting to printing, working on my product or design is amazing. Just the amount of work and involvement to make one shoe is absolutely incredible.



This series will include pictures, description and a bit of technical notes of each part of production process.

While the manufacturing production process might vary depending on the design of the shoe (ie. if it is a football boot or running shoe), and the specifics of each step in the process may be done in a slightly different way from factory to factory, the general process and steps involved is the same.

The process I will be showing follows the production of the hummel 4.2 Concept FGC football boot, produced in China.

Produced a very high quality factory, also used by several other major sports company, this factory uses a special production process and factory arrangement called Lean production. In this type of production, while the specific steps are the same as in any other factory, the layout and arrangement of the production lines is such that a boot will go from the start to the end in one day, in one complete flow. The way most typical factories are arranged, the production process is less linear, and partially finished shoes may be warehoused before being completed, then later taken back into the production line at a different stage.

The advantage of Lean production is that there is more control of the production, less waste, no warehousing of unfinished goods, and slightly faster production. It is however more difficult, since all parts of the shoe (upper, mateirals, outsoles, laces, etc.) must be effeciently ordered and managed to come into the factory at the right time, since production cannot continue if any part is missing and there is no warehousing.

This factory, medium sized production facility has 6 production lines. Typically, depending on construction, each line will produce about 2500 pairs of shoes per day.



Materials

Cutting

Printing and HF embossing

Stitching

Lasting

Assembly

final QC and packing

Rendering tutorial continued.

Click the Read More linke below for more of the tutorial.




In general, most of the rendering techniques are pretty much a "do and repeat" process of each different part of form, highlight and shadow.





Once you start to develop your skills it gets pretty easy and just requires some patience and time. Nearing the end of the rendering, you can add additional effect by erasing parts of your body shadow in highlight areas, adding white airbrush ontop set to Lighten for more highlight, and add small pinprick highlight dots (I remember them being called "birdshit" in traditional marker rendering classes when exectuted with guache or white-out) for more pop.

In the end, the final look and effect is up to you. Some tend to go with a more over the top style including lens flares and overlayed sketchy lines, but I generally prefer to keep things as real as possible. Small details I like include reflections of a ring flash in the shiny plastic heel counter made from Illustrator artwork, and used also on the body of the shoe in different scales and opacities.



For my final rendering, I did the same again for the medial side, and then combined two TIFFS of the renderings together with a background of black to white gradient and low opacity sketch for the final view.

Thats all! In total, this rendering of lateral and medial side took me about 12 hours and I ended up with 2x40 Mb PSD files. As a matter of course, I dont normally do renderings like this for work in the process of design and development as it is so time consuming, but sometimes a good visualization can help indeed help present a concept that is hard to understand through sketches. Still, I'll take a pen and paper any day.

R

Comments and questions are welcome.